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….............…...……....--- DC & DCC Sound & Loco Controller Build ---
….............…...…....--- The Bluetooth Boxcar ---
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NOTE: Can give you a sound option for any DC or DCC loco on a DCC layout using the sound controller ( HERE ).
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On this page I’ll show how to build the Bluetooth boxcar with a speaker in it.
Lets start off with the wiring diagram….
None of the components are expensive and you can find them for less than the prices shown below if you shop some.
Parts list:
RaceDayQuads 380 mAh battery……………………………………………….………….. $5.00 ( HERE )
Adafruit 3.7v to 5v booster (61023) …………………………………………….………….. $4.00 ( HERE )
750mW Amplifier ……………………………………………………………….………….. $4.50 ( HERE )
KCX_BT_EMITTER (Bluetooth Receiver)……………………………………..…………. $9.00 ( HERE )
JST 1.5mm 2 pin connectors ……………………………………………………………….. $2.00 ( HERE )
9x16mm Speaker …………………………………………………………………..………… $1.50 ( HERE )
Speaker Enclosure …My print files ( HERE ) but you can buy them at Streamlined Backshop ( HERE )
Adafruit 1904 3 stage battery charger …………………………………………..…………. $7.00 ( HERE )
It was hard finding a battery that I thought would fit but like what I ended up with. Worried they might not be easy to find in the future so then ordered a couple more ( HERE ).
NOTE: To change the KTX Bluetooth board into a receiver you need to solder across the TX/RX pad shown above. It comes as a transmitter and that pad is open.
The hardest part of the build can be soldering the wires to the KTX transmitter module. I’ve tried different ways and the method above is by far the easiest. Trying to solder a wire right to it is hard as the pad spacing is very close. I found the best way was to cut wires from resistors (I have hundreds that I’ll never use). Make a hook in the end of the wire and run it through the hole on the KTX. Flatten it with some needle nose pliers. I put liquid flux on with a micro brush. I then use a fine tip iron as hot as it goes and some very thin solder (.3 mm). Put a little drop of solder on the iron tip. Get on the wire & pad and off as soon as you see the solder flow.
Cut the wires short (see image above). I soldered #26 wire to the short resistor wire. I’ll put a larger blob of solder on the iron tip and hold the wire against the side of the resistor wire and drag the solder along the two wires and off. After doing it a time or two you will get the hang of it.
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Battery is a RDQ Series 3.8V 1S 380mAh 1S 60C LiHV Whoop/Micro Battery – PH2.0 from RaceDayQuads ( HERE ). I was worried they might not be easy to find in the future so ordered a couple more at $5.00 each.
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I glued the slide switch in with CA and almost glued it where it wouldn’t slide so be careful doing that. The pairing button switch is not glued in. It is held into place by the pressure of the side of the speaker enclosure. The JST charge plug on the end was white. I painted it black and red. The red is on the side of the JST female plug that has the red wire. You can only plug it in one way but the red to red helps in doing that.
I barely got everything in but like it as then nothing moves around. I could of created a little more room if I would of used smaller diameter wire and kept some of the wire shorter. I’m in the 50’s to early 70’s time period so didn’t want a real long car but that would always be an option.
I also have Rapido couplers on one end of the car and Micro-Train couplers on the other end as some of my locos have one and others have the other.
There is a demo of using the boxcar behind a DC and a DCC loco ( HERE ).
The build for the sound decoder to send the sound to the boxcar is ( HERE )
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