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….....................................--- HandCab WiFi Throttle – Part 4 ---
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The parts for the HandCab are ......
….. inexpensive and easy to find. You can build the throttle for around $60 or less if you buy a few of the items in quantity with a friend. If you don't have a 3D printer there are printing services that will print the printed parts at a reasonable price.
For a detailed parts list with links go ( HERE ).
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You might have to file the case top just a bit to get the keypad to snap in. You want a nice tight fit although there is a bracket that will go under it to hold it in place (see next image).
Also trial fit the top case with the keypad in it to the middle case selection and see which of the two brackets is the better fit to hold the keypad in place. Set it aside for use later. For some reason I've used the thinner one on one throttle and the thicker on the other.
Next up are a couple throttle features that I like having but are optional. One is the option for a voltmeter that displays on the screen when you would like to check battery voltage.
The other are LED indicator lights. I like the option of adding a second battery as they aren't that expensive. If you are operating and the battery goes down you only need to switch to the second one and keep operating. With two batteries I install two LEDs that indicate which battery is being used or charged.
The last is having an On/Off LED indicator. The following shows how to add all of these if you want them and it doesn't cost much to do it and is easier now than if the throttle is all wired in done. Maybe think about doing this even if you only want to start with one battery. Adding a second later would then only involve putting pigtail on the batter with a JST connector and plugging it in.
If you want to include all or part of the above build the following parts as shown and later in the build you will do the wiring to them.
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The PCB sheets are really cheap on eBay. For instance what I use for the above and cutting N scale PCB ties for handlaid turnouts ( 8 pcs Double Sided Copper Clad Circuit Board Laminate FR-4 .030 for $8.00 with free shipping ) . If that link doesn't stay active here is a general one ( HERE ).
The voltmeter circuit, battery being used circuit and the on/off circuits are all optional. I do find them helpful myself.
Another option other than the PCB for the solder pads is using perfboard like Lee did in the image above.
A charging circuit is also optional as the ESP 32 can charge the battery.
The Adafruit $6 charge controller, shown above, is a 3 stage charge controller and as such can probably do a better job of charging (my guess) than the ESP32 one. Also with the separate charging circuit the ESP32 does not have to be on during charging.
Solder a longer red wire (I used 22 gauge) to the 'BAT' terminal on the charging board. It will go to the battery selector switch (or to the batter if you only have one). Solder a shorter black wire to the 'GND' terminal, it will go to Neg/GND.
If your battery has a capacity equal to or greater than 500mAh (I'd recommend at least 1100mAh) there is a pad on the charging board you should solder across the gap for a higher charging rate. See image above where the gap still needs to be bridged by solder.
Carefully bend the ESP32 header pins 90 degrees in alternate direction directions before soldering them to the ESP32. Support the black plastic parts of the header to keep them in one piece.
The first time I soldered the header pins to something like the ESP32 I was intimidate, don't be. Use a good flux, a hot iron so you can make the solder joint quickly and move around on the pins to not get the component to hot (don't go from one to the next to the next but you probably already knew that).
Flux and tin the pins and it will be very easy to add the wires to them later.
This wire will go to an On/Off switch and then onto a battery or a battery selector switch if you have two batteries so make it long enough to go to the other end of the case or longer (you can cut is shorter). Above it is show with the ESP32 in the case. I like to solder it on with the ESP32 in my vise as it is easier to see what is going on. Again, flux, tin the wire & back of the port, hot iron with a drop of solder on it and a quick on and off.
Later a Pos/Neg solder pad will be made that will sit above one end of the ESP32.
There will probably be some cleanup of the port for the ESP32 on the end of the case if you print without supports in the opening. I don't use supports there and it cleans up easily with a small file. Keep the opening sized for a snug fit for the ESP32.
For the whole build of this throttle go ( HERE ).
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