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…................................................................--- Code 55 #8 Double Crossover ---

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This won't be a step-by-step but hopefully maybe give someone some ideas.

Check the Trackwork Index ( HERE ) down a ways for tips on making your own PCB ties. You can make the ties for say a #6 turnout in a few minutes for less than a dollar. You decide how long you want them and how wide.

Forever I've been holding the ties with my fingers while I file the gaps with the triangle file. Now I clamp a piece of scrap wood to the side of the work area with a C-clamp. I'll hold the tie with channel-lock pliers and move across it with the pliers while filing the gaps keeping the pliers next to the gap I'm filing. Since the tie doesn't move at all you cut the gap much quicker. I'll also take a few file swipes on each side of the gap on the flat PCB surface. That knocks the oxidation off of it which makes the solder flow on and hold better.

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Build the individual parts piece by piece on the second template. The top rail on that piece still needs to be straightened out from point to point.

I've designed and put up the print files on thingiverse.com for fixtures one can use to glue up the frog points for different angles. Above is the #8 fixture I used here. Depending on the print quality you might have to touch up the channels some. You can find more about the fixtures and links down the page a ways ( HERE ).

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One other thing I should of done a long time ago was to buy some of the 3-point tools that are about $5 each. They save a lot of time if you are building from templates and gauge the track better than trying to get it exactly in the right place above the template. I don't take it for granted though that the track is perfect using them. Still use the NMRA gauge and gauged trucks often, often, often.

If I was building one of these again I wouldn't of put the bottom 'triangular' piece in until I'd built above and to the right of it. That way I wouldn't of found myself boxed in when I got to that section. As it was I had to move that piece some. Luckily I had soldered it to every tie yet.

I only solder enough ties as I go along to hold things in place. Then if while checking I need to move a rail a few thousands of an inch I can hold the solder iron on the tie/rail joint, flow the solder and push it a bit with a screwdriver until I have things where they need to be.

Since cutting the final insulation gaps in the rails at the frogs makes the piece somewhat weaker I might not cut them until I'm ready to install the piece. Also if I'm going to extend the throwbar out to one side of the other to attach a switch machine and I'm not sure which side I'll hold off on installing the throwbars also.

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I feel good about the crossover but the real test will be when I actually run some different engines and cars through it.

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